You may or may not know but mythically, says a little birdie, “there is this secret little wave someplace special that kinda rhymes with ‘fell bow which breaks a bit better than most during steep south swells.” Enough about that, as it’s not entirely the focus here so let’s move past the riddle.
If I recall correctly, on that day two of our most favorite photographers, Drew Martin & Brooks Sterling, came through the office to persuade us to surf just this past time the wave with the name which resembles that of a Sesame Street character  was breaking. “Come on guys, it’s glassy and warm and empty and we want to hang out!” We agreed this was too fun of a crew not to leave the desk behind for. Plus, it was a much needed escape as we were all overly focused on closing out our Summer season and launching our Fall 2014 collection.
Without too much persuasion we loaded up my  truck and left 6480. Each of us pretty much saw what everyone wants to see when checking one’s personal favorite little nook and wasted no time in the car park. The water was warm, the air was warmer and we packed a cruisey single fin as well as a fun little twinny and couple of cameras, just in case. The sand was hot, we ran. The waves where shimmering, see-through-blue & calling to us. Before we could even almost make a plan or line up a shot, I ( this is LJ, hi ) jumped in.
When you’re shooting with Drew and Brooks you kind of don’t even need to make a plan. Whether creating a unique angle from the beach or throwing themselves over the ledge in the water with you, these two are determined to make your bs surfing look like you are some kind of special. It’s truly the two of them who are.
On this particular day it was Drew in the water and Brooks on the beach laughing at us. Sometimes, that wave wants to eat you. I’d take a wave that was too steep for a single fin, get pounded and come up to the beach with sand and salt water pouring out of every place it could cram itself into and Brooks would be smiling and snickering with a sinister laugh, “go back out and get another LJ, you looked cool on that last one, haha.” What he really meant was ‘it is entertaining as f*ck watching you take beatings on your single fin, please, for me, once more.’
While I’m not one to turn down a good time, no matter what the cost, I went back out again and again for extra helpings of hold downs. Plus, since Drew was in the water with me, taking every beating just as severely as I was – only with a camera in his hand, I felt I had a brother with me in it and everything was going to be ok. We got so many happy closeouts and did so many summersaults we couldn’t help but laugh each time we took one on the head together. You know it’s a good day when your nose is drooling out water hours after you’ve dried off and left the beach. You can only smile afterwards when the post nasal drip pours out onto your laptop’s keyboard reminding you of the fun you’d had with your friends. Those are the days we live for. We’ll be looking for an excuse to have many more of those with our friends. Come stop by 6480, twist our arm why don’t you??


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